Overskirt (Kuba)
Maker Once Known, Kuba People (Bushoong Group) (Democratic Republic of the Congo)
Overskirt (n.d.)
raffia, bark cloth
160.0 x 74.0 cm
Gift of Anna Cooper Heath
H-654
This textile is an overskirt. Made by the Kuba people, this type of cloth is a raffia fiber textile that originates from the Democratic Republic of the Congo. It is known for bold geometric patterns in contrasting colors, such as the black and tan triangles surrounded by a border of black zigzags that can be seen in the cloth above. According the Metropolitan Museum of Art, men and women had specific roles in making textiles: "Cloth was woven from the fibers of the raffia palm by Kuba men and then given to Kuba women, who stitched the separate pieces together, dyed them, and decorated them. Wrappers for both men and women were created from several panels of cloth and embellished with appliquéd cloth or with embroidered geometric designs." You can find out more about Kuba produced textiles from the Met. This particular cloth is characteristic of a Bushoong overskirt, "with a central patchwork panel of black-and-white triangles surrounded on three sides by embroidered raffia panels" (Gillow 2003: 202). In the book African Textiles, author John Gillow indicates that the raffia panels on these overskirts are far more durable than the inner bark cloth panel, so it is not atypical to see older raffia panels reused on new overskirts as the bark cloth wears out (2003: 202). Overskirts of this type are considered to be particularly prestigious, and "are often draped over bodies at funerals" (Gillow 2003: 202).
In the image above, Jennie, collection assistant, is filling in a condition report on this overskirt. The top half of the form has fill-in-the-blanks that captures object information such as object name, (overskirt) object number (H-654), artist/maker (Kuba people, artist once known), medium (bark cloth and raffia), dimensions, marks/labels, signature/inscriptions, etc. The form’s bottom half has a blank space for the examiner to write a detailed description of the object’s condition and wear. In this case, the examiner has written “Numerous holes throughout. The center of this tapa is a pattern of black and cream alternating triangles. It is surrounded by a border of black and tan zigzags. One end has been cut off. “EDK” is written on the edge with ink.” These notes are often accompanied by sketches or photographs to illustrate and record any damage. What condition notes would you make about this textile in the photograph?
This page has paths:
- Textiles Photography Project Jessica Nelson
- Clothing - Wearable Art Jessica Nelson